Fresh Quince of the Webb lair

My hubby Reggie loves quinces which are at their prime at the moment. But I'm a little scared to cook with them.

Just because you can’t bite straight into them, doesn’t mean that they aren’t fresh and delicious. Quinces are one of the most aromatic, nice smelling fruits. Reg always says that you need to give a quince some time, love, care and attention and the results will be worth it. You can never rush a quince, the beauty of the fruit is that the cooking takes time and the longer it takes to cook a quince, the better your home smells.

Here's his recipe for Quince and Pear Filo Pie.

Quince and Pear Filo Pie

For the Quinces

10 medium sized quinces

3 cups caster sugar

1 split vanilla bean

3 cinnamon sticks

2 whole cloves

4  cardamom pods

5 black peppercorns

Zest of one lemon

Water to cover

·         Peel and quarter quinces and place in a pot that can go in the oven (i.e. a casserole dish).

·         Add all other ingredients into the pot and add water to cover.

·         Cook in the oven at a low temperature (100-120 degrees) for as long as possible (approx. 10 hours). You know the quinces are ready when they are a deep ruby colour and are tender to touch. If you have a slow cooker, follow the recipe and cook on low for 8 hours or so.

·         Allow to cool in the syrup.

For the Pears

10 medium sized firm pears

3 cups caster sugar

1 split vanilla bean

Water to cover

·         Peel and quarter the pears and place in a pot. Add all the other ingredients in the pot and add water to cover.

·         Cook on the stove top on medium heat for approx. 15 minutes or until the pear is just soft. Allow to cool in the syrup.

For the Pie

Cooked quinces (cooled)

Cooked pears (cooled)

Filo pastry (bought from the local store)

A couple of big tablespoons of butter (melted)

Pre-heat oven to 200 degrees Celsius.

·         Remove cores and dice quinces and pears. Place the two fruits in a bowl leaving as much syrup behind as possible.

·         Brush your favourite pie dish with melted butter.

·         Brush 6 sheets of filo pastry with the melted butter.

·         Layer the filo sheets on top of each other in the pie dish like a + symbol, alternating quarter turns, with the excess pastry hanging over the sides.

·         Once all the 6 sheets are layered, gently press into the sides of the dish.

·         Pour fruit into the well in the centre. Fold the excess filo into the centre of the pie.

·         Brush the top of the now closed pie with a little bit of the melted butter.

·         Cook for approx. 30-40 minutes until the pastry is golden and crispy.

Serve with your favourite cream or ice-cream.

Notes:

Quinces and pears can be cooked days in advance and kept in the fridge.

We use a bottomless pie ring sitting on a flat tray lined with baking paper. My wife used a round non-stick cake tin to make hers.

Extra spices can be added to the pears as you like.

Rocco's Role

I’m greeted by a friendly ‘ciao’ when I enter Rocco’s Delicatessen. The store smells good, like a home cooked meal. Rocco smiles at me and there’s a definite twinkle in his eye. Everything about this place is familiar, like I have stepped back to a moment in my childhood.

Rocco and his wife Adriana opened their store in February 1977, 38 years ago. The store is full of reminders of the past, from the vintage signs behind the counter reminding you to purchase a TAB cola or how you can be a mod while smoking a Virginian Slim, to the family photos behind the register and the sound the door makes when you open it.

A Conversation With... Mark Briggs

I have lived in Yarraville for four years and during that time I have seen the village catapult to being a place where you could get away with wearing filthy tracksuit pants, to an uber-hip inner city suburb where smackie-dacks just don’t pass.

Why? Perhaps it’s all the yummy parentals cruising around the hood with their pimped up prams, or the Sun Theatre with its amazingly awesome choc tops, or even the retail therapy ranging from second hand stores to unique fashion? No. You know what’s brought the change from old school to cool? It’s Mark Briggs.

If you don’t know Mark by now, let’s get you up to speed. Yarraville’s latest acquisition is the former Head Chef of Vue de Monde, was named The Age’s Young Chef of the Year in 2013 and has trained with the best, working in renowned kitchens such as Fifteen London, La Tante Claire in London, and The Old Manor House in Romsley, UK. Now you can find him on your doorstep, at Dig A Pony.

I’m married to a chef and whenever I explain what my husband does for a living, people jump up and down clapping and squealing about how lucky I am. What a lot of people don’t understand is that chefs don’t really spend that much time at home cooking for their family, as they are normally cooking for you. So in a sense, you are a part of that extended family.

When I asked Mark about cooking at home he said he likes to put on a roast, but, with his signature smirk, “my wife complains that I make too much of a mess”.

Being a chef is not just about dishing up good food, and with Mark’s incredible experience to date, creativity and inspiration can start with a simple staff meal.

“I’m always thinking about food and idea’s come up all the time, whether I’m at the market, watching TV or cooking a staff meal”.

“My favourite staff meals to cook are childhood favourites or a traditional local dish. It’s really exciting when one of the chefs buys a load of ingredients that I’ve never heard of and cooks up something from their own childhood memories.

“I have also experienced a lot of awful staff meals. I mean, the staff meal is a place where chefs can test out flavours and ingredients.  Some don’t always go to plan. One I will never forget was a sausage and bread stew. The chef who made it still gets a hard time about it six years later!”

(Don’t worry, I asked Mark – that chef doesn’t work at Dig a Pony!)

So what do the people of the inner west like to eat? Apparently we are a trendy bunch, who love our food.

“The healthy options are always popular along with the unusual, like tripe and liver. It’s great to cook for locals who have a good knowledge of food and appreciate fine ingredients.  We are always trying to bring something a little different to Yarraville: new tastes, flavours and dishes – and so far it seems to be working!”

“I love spending my days off at local haunts Cobb Lane and the Cornershop in Yarraville where I can always find excellent dishes. For dinner, I can’t go past a steak at The Station Hotel in Footscray. We are so lucky to be surrounded by so many great options for dining!”

When Mark explained that his favourite people to cook for are his friends and family, I couldn’t help but ask the question as to who the most famous person was that he has ever rustled up a meal for.

“It would have to be Ferran Adria from elBulli in Spain. But if you are talking famous people known to everyone it would probably be David Beckham or Rod Stewart”.

Phew! From Maggie May to Yarraville, it seems like Dig A Pony might be the place to be this summer or autumn or winter or spring – the menu changes with the seasons. So get in quick and try something new.

Dig A Pony is open Tue-Sun from 5pm. Closed Mondays.

58 Ballarat Street, Yarraville
www.digapony.com.au

(Photos copyright Paul Large: flickr.com/people/pmlarge)

This article first appeared in The Westsider, November 2014 edition. (http://thewestsider.com.au/a-conversation-with-mark-briggs/)